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The cuts · $50 · 35 min

Two passes. Three towels.

A straight razor shave is not a fancy version of the one you do at the sink. It is a different procedure with a different result, and the reason it lasts two days longer is geometry rather than luxury.

Heritage & Sons / Hot towel shave
01
The first towel

Hot, wrung out, over the whole face for three minutes. This is not theatre. Heat and moisture soften the keratin in the hair by a meaningful amount, and softer hair cuts with less pressure.

3 min
02
The pre-shave oil

A thin layer under the lather. It is what stops the blade dragging on the second pass, which is the pass where damage happens if it happens.

1 min
03
The lather

Badger brush, hard soap, worked in a bowl and then onto the face for a full minute. The brushing lifts the hair off the skin. That minute is the reason a brush beats a can.

2 min
04
Pass one · with the grain

Down the face, following the direction the hair grows. This takes most of the length off and is the pass that does most of the work.

8 min
05
The second towel, re-lather

Reset. Hot towel again, fresh lather, because the second pass on a dry face is where every bad straight shave has ever come from.

3 min
06
Pass two · across the grain

Not against it. Across. Close enough to be smooth for two days without going under the surface of the skin, which is what causes ingrowns.

8 min
07
The cold towel & balm

Closes everything down. Alum block on any nick, balm without alcohol, and out the door.

4 min
$50
The tools One straight
razor per barber

Single-use
blade every
shave

Badger brush
hard soap

Alum block
alcohol-free
balm

Why it lasts longer

A cartridge razor has three to five blades stacked behind each other. The first pulls the hair slightly out of the follicle, the ones behind cut it, and it retracts below the surface of the skin. That is why a cartridge shave feels closer for about six hours and why some men get ingrown hairs from it every single time.

A straight razor is one blade at one angle cutting the hair at the surface. Less close on the first morning, still smooth on the third, and nothing has been cut below the skin line to grow back into it. Two passes done properly get you there without ever going under.

“Against the grain” is not the goal

You will read that a proper barber shave finishes against the grain. Some do. We do not, on most faces, because the marginal closeness costs more in irritation than it returns in smoothness, and on necks it is how you produce a week of razor bumps.

If your beard is fine and lies flat and you want it, ask, and Joe will tell you honestly whether your face is one that takes it.

Who should not have one

Anyone with active acne or a cold sore in the area, which we will notice and mention quietly. Anyone on isotretinoin, where the skin is fragile enough that a straight razor is a genuinely bad idea. And anyone who cannot sit still for thirty-five minutes, which is not a joke.

Asked often.

Does a straight razor shave hurt?

It should not feel like anything much at all. Heat, lather and a properly stropped blade at the right angle is a dragging sensation rather than a scraping one. If it stings, something is wrong and we stop.

How long does a barber shave last?

Two to three days of genuine smoothness, which is longer than a cartridge razor even though the first morning feels marginally less close. The hair is cut at the surface rather than below it.

Is a straight razor shave sanitary?

A fresh single-use blade every shave, in front of you. The razor body and the brush are cleaned and the towels are laundered hot. Nobody shares a blade.

Can I get a straight razor shave with sensitive skin?

Usually yes, and often it is better than what you are doing at home, because ingrown hairs come from cutting below the skin line and this does not. Active acne, cold sores or isotretinoin are the exceptions.

Thirty-five minutes, no clock.

Fifty dollars, walk-in like everything else. Eighty gets you the cut with it.

Yeti·Design Co.

Example interactive prototype. Not a real business. Names, photographs, reviews and figures on this page are illustrative. Identifying details on real client work are changed to protect their privacy. This is what Yeti can build for a barbershop in seven days.

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