Why the pigment comes first
The most common thing that walks in here is not lines, it is uneven brown pigment across the cheeks and upper lip: sun-induced melasma and solar lentigines, arriving ten years earlier than the textbooks describe.
Melanocytes respond to ultraviolet by producing melanin, and repeated stimulation over decades makes some of them permanently overactive. That is why sun damage keeps appearing for years after the exposure that caused it, and why people are surprised to develop pigment in their forties from a childhood spent outside.
It is also why light-based treatment here is seasonal. Treating melanocytes that are being actively stimulated is treating a moving target, and the pigment comes straight back.
The four things that actually help
Sunscreen, daily, including winter and including indoors. Broad spectrum, SPF 30 minimum, reapplied if you are out. This is genuinely the highest-impact item on this entire website and it costs about thirty dollars a bottle. UVA passes through window glass and through a car windscreen, which is why the left side of most drivers’ faces in this country is measurably more aged than the right.
A hat with a real brim. Three inches or more, all the way round. A baseball cap does nothing for cheeks, which is where the pigment is.
A retinoid at night. The only topical class with strong evidence for reversing photodamage rather than just preventing more.
Barrier repair. Ceramides and a moisturiser that actually occludes, particularly in the driest months. It is unglamorous and it is why our skin here reacts to treatments that people tolerate easily elsewhere.